Pores – those tiny openings in the skin – change throughout our lives; from the seemingly invisible pores of youth, to the clogged pores of adolescence and the enlarged pores of adulthood. The good news is that there are ways to keep them looking healthy.
🕒 5 min read
Skin isn't designed to be a continuously smooth surface like plastic. On average, the body has about five million pores, 20,000 of which are on the face. These small apertures lead to sweat and oil glands which enable your largest organ (your skin) to regulate temperature through perspiration, and to lubricate itself so that it stays supple and flexible, and can bend and stretch as you do. In short, we can't do without them.
Large pores
When we're born our pores are all tiny but, with body growth and hormone activity, especially puberty and the toll it takes on oil production, their size starts to change, especially in the centre of the face. Genes also have a lot to do with their size so if your parents had visibly large pores, you may have them, too.
The greatest myth of all is that they open and close like doors. However, a pore can become stretched, sometimes permanently, when oil, pollution, dirt, makeup particles and dead skin cells collect in it, blocking it and distending it with blackheads and spots. (Blackheads, by the way, are oil plugs that appear black when exposed to air. This isn't dirt but oxidation, the same process that turns a cut apple brown.)
You may have noticed that your pores look better or worse in different weather conditions. This is because they contract slightly in the cold, which makes them seem tighter, then 'relax' in warm weather so they appear larger and more open. But this difference is only a matter of (modest) degree. As for that old trick of applying something cold to your face to 'close' the pores, any tightening benefits will only last until the skin warms up again.
Ageing is another contributory factor. Collagen, the dense, cushiony ingredient in the skin, and elastin, the stretchy component, help keep pores relatively firm and tight when we're younger, but ageing and years of cumulative UV-exposure breaks down those supportive fibres. Pores then become looser and more visibly enlarged as the skin around them slackens like old elastic.
How to minimise pores
Many people want to know how to get rid of pores, but as explained above, our pores are essential to our skin's health. We can, however, take steps to minimise pores and ensure a more even skin tone.
Protect skin from sun damage
One long-term strategy is to use UV protection every day, to help preserve the skin's elasticity and firmness. The Daily UV Defence SPF50 provides high-level protection, as well as vitamin C to boost collagen and support firmness. It also contains niacinamide (vitamin B3), an anti-inflammatory antioxidant that is known to help improve enlarged pores.
Cleanse and tone
It's also vital to cleanse skin twice daily to help prevent pores becoming blocked and distended with oil, dirt, makeup and dead cells in the first place. Unfortunately, treating the skin roughly can make the problem worse so always be gentle when touching your face – and make sure you have clean hands. Massage in cleanser gently and slowly, working it in longer, not harder.
Try the Replenish Cream Cleanser followed by the Replenish Gentle Toner. Both contain phytoestrogens (plant hormones) to help restore density and tone. In tests, 81% of toner users reported that their pores appeared smaller.
Replenish Cleanser & Replenish Toner Kit
Leaves skin soft, smooth and refreshed
- Gentle cream cleanser and tonic
- Specially formulated for mature skin
- With sweet almond oil, phytoestrogens and vitamin E
Be gentle
It might be tempting, but avoid picking or squeezing blackheads or spots. Bacteria on fingertips, nails and on the skin itself, plus pressing, digging and gouging actions, can too often lead to inflammation, infection and permanently enlarged pores.
Instead, keep those little openings clear with gentle deep-cleansing scrubs. The Skin Brightening Facial Exfoliator is delicate enough to use every day.
I also always recommend using tepid water (rather than hot) to rinse your skin, as hot temperatures can contribute to loss of elasticity (think what it does to the elastic in your laundry!) Gently blot your skin dry rather than rubbing.
How to unclog pores: helpful ingredients
As well as avoiding pore-clogging ingredients, you can arm yourself with ingredients that help to actively clear blocked pores.
Among these are AHAs and BHAs, mild acids often derived from fruit, which work best over time to dissolve dead skin cells, rev up collagen production and leave a smoother, firmer complexion with pores that appear tighter. Ferulic acid, our favourite skin-friendly AHA, is present in Vitamin C Serum. This not only softens lines and wrinkles but, in tests, has been shown to reduce the appearance of pores.
Retinol is also helpful. Best known for helping to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, it helps improve slackening skin by increasing collagen production. Like hydroxy acids, it also unclogs pores, clears dead cells and reveals fresher, firmer, more refined looking skin.
It's best to use retinol at night since it can increase sun-sensitivity during daytime. If you have sensitive skin, try applying it every other night (or even twice weekly) until your tolerance level adjusts. The Intensive Night Treatment Cream contains retinol and vitamin C for their renowned firming and smoothing benefits.
Final words of advice
Be smart with your make-up – especially in summer
Although oil production doesn't change much, it's normal for skin to seem shinier in summer simply because its natural oils spread further, not unlike melting fat in a hot pan. A shiny, oily surface also draws attention to the pores.
If your complexion is oil-prone, you can make the pores on your face less obvious by using blotting papers, face powder or primers to control shine. The Replenish Instant Skin Perfector contains oil-absorbing mattifiers plus optical diffusers that 'blur' not only those pesky pores but fine lines and wrinkles as well.
Not getting anywhere? Consider clinical help
Finally, for stubborn blackhead removal and clogged-up pores, visit a beauty therapist for a deep-cleansing facial that includes expert blackhead extraction. Alternatively, if you have the budget for deeper, longer-lasting, skin-refining therapies, consult a dermatologist for advice on treatments such as microneedling, laser therapy or chemical peels. They may not be cheap, but the result can be a smoother, more delicate look to pores and reduced signs of ageing.